2013 Jean Paul and Benoit Droin Grand Cru Chablis Les Clos
Domaine Jean-Paul et Benoit Droin
Chablis - Les Clos
Grand Cru White 750 ml
Tasted: Oct 15, 2015
Note: from a large 1.40 ha parcel of vines; 50% wood, approximately one-third of which was new
Producer note: Benoit Droin noted that 2014 was a "vintage with a bizarre growing season as it was good early and late and not so hot, literally, in the middle. Still, as long as you were vigilant it was relatively easy to manage as we had very little disease pressure. Yields were all over the place as the flowering was troubled due to an intense heat spike that caused a lot of shatter. I say that yields were variable because the most precocious parcels were naturally the first to flower and thus they were most affected by the heat. In those parcels we were down around 30% whereas in others, yields were almost normal. As I usually do, I began picking earlier than most which is to say on the 11th of September. There was a lot of malic acidity and some of the malos are still not finished. As to the style of the wines, they are classic examples of Chablis and I would describe them as a hypothetical blend of 1996 and 2010. Because of the cool summer they have a lot of citrus elements along with firm acidities that should enable them to age for years." As I noted last year, fans of the domaine will note the presence of a new wine in the form of the great 1er Vaulorent. Droin noted that he was able to purchase a .33 ha parcel. Droin continues to bottle all of his wines under Diam corks with a mix of Diam 5 and Diam 10 depending on the level of the wine. The upper level 2013s, revisited below, were bottled in September 2014. Note that several of the 2014s are not reviewed because they were still finishing their malos. (European Cellars/Eric Soloman Selections, www.europeancellars.com, Charlotte, NC; Berry Brothers & Rudd, www.bbr.com, Goedhuis & Co., www.goedhuis.com, Richards Walford, www.r-w.co.uk, and Uncorked Ltd, www.uncorked.co.uk, all UK).
Tasting note: A pungent and penetrating nose of mostly mineral reduction and petrol notes that are also trimmed in noticeable if subtle SO2. The racy, tension-filled and mineral-driven large-scaled flavors are at once powerful and beautifully well-delineated, all wrapped in an almost painfully intense, dry and hugely long finish. This is not as complex today as I believe that it will be as it develops, so I would advise holding this for at least 4 to 5 years before cracking one.