2013 Yeringberg Shiraz
Perhaps not surprisingly given our early experience with the variety in the 1970s, Shiraz has once again found a happy home in our vineyard. The 2013 vintage is a wine of depth, with lifted blue fruit, white pepper and intense aromatics. Elegant, and with a silky luxuriousness, the nose leads effortlessly onto the beautifully poised palate that delivers a wine of almost unexpected structure and focus. Savoury and sappy, yet generously fleshy, the mid-palate demands attention as it builds through the fine tannin core towards a long and expansive finish. A wine of structure and finesse for drinking now or over the next 10+ years. – Sandra de Pury
“Continues an outstanding run.”
Those are the words of James Halliday, uttered in reference to this latest release of Sandra and Guill de Pury’s Marsanne/Roussanne. But really, it could be taken as a reflection of the progress of the resolutely traditional Yeringberg. For all the family’s refusal to fall prey to faddishness, there’s no doubt that the de Purys have relentlessly dedicated their intelligence and sensitivity to the cause of refining their estate.
The vineyard, first planted in 1863, has naturally seen changes. Varieties like Chasselas, the staple white grape of Guill de Pury’s Swiss forebears, have fallen by the wayside, while Shiraz was in and out twice before finding its rightful place. The floral, spicy, silky 2012 shows that it’s well and truly found it. The obvious, uniform excellence of Yeringberg’s 2012 wines showed the value of lessons learned gradually and minutely through the ages.
As Halliday’s comment above suggests, 2013 carries on the stately, steady trajectory. On the white front, the Marsanne/Roussanne is joined by what Josh Raynolds of Vinous Media calls a silky, open-knit and elegant Viognier. Raynolds is likewise full of praise for the Chardonnay, which “closes with excellent focus and lift, leaving a subtle floral note behind”. “Wonderful length. Stunning wine,” is how the latest edition of the Halliday Wine Companion sums up the same wine.
Onto the reds, which are yet to be broadly reviewed. It’s well known that the 2013 vintage in the Yarra Valley was highly auspicious for Pinot Noir and Shiraz. As for the Yeringberg Bordeaux blend, you may recall that the 2012 won plenty of accolades, including best Cabernet at the Yarra Valley Wine Show, plus 98 points and a slot in Halliday’s top 100. The 2013 follow-up got the same score from Huon Hooke, who named it in his Top 25 wines of 2015. “A great wine, with a magical array of flavours,” he wrote.
“Things tend to accumulate when a family has lived at the same property for over 150 years,” mused Guill de Pury after donating the complete Yeringberg Archives - a set of vineyard and diary records spanning 1874 to 1956 - to the Yarra Ranges Museum. Just like all those documents detailing a domain painstaking nurtured through the years, these wines are testament to the focus, wisdom and staying power of these pioneers.