2013 Sylvain Cathiard Chambolle Nuits St Georges 1er Cru Aux Thorey

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Domaine Sylvain Cathiard
Nuits St. Georges "Aux Thorey"
1er Cru Red barrel
Score: 89-91
Tasted: Jan 15, 2015
Drink: 2021+
Issue: 57


Note: from a .43 ha parcel of vines planted in 1953
Producer note: Much as he did in 2012, Sébastian Cathiard observed that "despite a very difficult growing season the 2013 vintage has turned out far better than it had any right to be. I certainly didn't expect this level of quality in any event. We began picking on the 5th of October and brought in a very small crop that was 25 to 30% lower than what I realized in 2012. While the sorting losses were variable depending on the parcel in question, in some of them I lost as much as 20, which if you think about it is an awful lot to just throw away. Potential alcohols were reasonable if not high at between 11.2 and 12.2% and I chaptalized from 1 to 1.5% depending on the wine. Based on my sense of the quality of the raw materials I changed my vinification approach to a longer but softer regimen. The total cuvaison lasted from 24 to 30 days as opposed to the 18 to 25 days that I usually use. I also decided to use 5 to 10% less new wood just as I did in 2012 though it remains at 100% for the Suchots and RSV. As to the wines, as I mentioned they have turned out much better than I had hoped. They're chiseled and pure with a lovely sense of energy and the terroir definitely shines through. I think that they're going to be very popular because even though they're classic they're already so much fun to drink. In short I think that they're very exciting wines." I agree with the young Cathiard's take on his wines but particularly so with his range of Vosne 1ers. Note I revisited one 2012 now in bottle. (Becky Wasserman & Co., www.leserbet.com, Beaune, France; The Wine Society, www.thewinesociety.com, Robert Rolls & Co., www.robertrolls.com, Berry Brothers & Rudd, www.bbr.com, Flint Wines, www.flintwines.com, La Réserve, and O.W. Loeb, www.owloeb.com, all UK; Veritas Imports, www.veritaswine.com, CA/NV/CO/AZ/NM, Fine Vines, www.finevines.com, Chicago, IL, Wines Unlimited, www.winesunlimited.com, New Orleans, LA, Frederick Wildman, www.frederickwildman.com, NY/NJ/CT, Classified Wine & Spirits, LLC, www.classifiedwine.net, Austin, TX, Small Potatoes Wine, www.smallpotatoeswine.com, Boise ID, C'est Vin, LLC, 703/243-3559, Arlington, VA; Berry Brothers & Rudd, www.bbr.com, UK; L'Imperatrice Fine Wines, www.imperatrice.com.hk, Hong Kong/China).
Tasting note: A softly spicy and broad-ranging nose displays notes of earth, plum, cassis and a hint of smoke. Here too there is a relatively fine grain to the supporting tannins that impart a refined feeling to the delicious and detailed middle weight flavors that possess a lovely vibrancy on the ever-so-mildly austere finale. I like the balance and this should be attractive young if desired.