2013 Henri Germain Meursault 1er Cru Charmes

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120 bottles only. While Henri Germain produces a genuinely intense Meursault Charmes, it is invariably tightly wound, retaining a palpable nervosity as it develops. It is, in other words, not your stereotypical example. It’s not fleshy and open but rather tightly wound, linear, deep; racy with chamomile tea, lemon drop fruit and plenty of matchstick reduction. The youngest vines here are 35 years old and the parcel sits right on the cusp of the Puligny demarcation (one key to the finesse on offer) - followers of this wine will attest that in certain years Germain’s Charmes seems to think it is a Puligny. This glistening, super-pure and floral 2013 is one of those years. Great growers teach us that what we think we know about Burgundy may have as much to do with historical, political and economic factors as it does with any reality on the ground. In short, and it may be sacrilege to say so, but a Meursault Charmes can be as great as a Perrières, if it comes from the right part of the vineyard and if the grower has the ‘touch’ and is willing to do the hard work. That’s what we have here—a Charmes every bit as great as this growers Perrières. There, we said it. Bravo, Monsieur Germain.

« Sweet Spot, Outstanding “While it is unlikely to be permanent there is enough reduction present to dominate the underlying fruit. By contrast there is lovely freshness and verve to the solidly concentrated medium weight flavors that are blessed with an abundance of dry extract that imparts a sappy texture to the clean, dry and admirably precise finale. This beautifully well-balanced effort should reward up to a decade of cellaring.” 91-93 points, Allen Meadows, Burghound.com, Issue 57