2013 Domaine Huet Le Clos Du Bourg Sec
This is a Domaine that every year produces wines with that all too rare confluence of purity and knife-edge precision, and at the same time, incredible depth and longevity. You therefore cannot go wrong with any of the wines below. They are fantastically aromatic whites that dance across the palate with a zest and an intensity that seems otherworldly.
The winegrowing and making:
Biodynamic practises started in 1988 and by 1990, all of the vineyards were fully BD. Even before this no herbicides or chemical fertilisers were utilised. Grapes are picked by hand in multiple ‘tries’ (passes through the vineyard). There is a selection both on the vines and then on a sorting table in the vineyard. The fruit is then gently whole bunch pressed. This pressing is famously slow and very gentle. There is one day of settling and then the wine is put directly to very old demi-muid (600lt barrels). There are no additions; Huet never chaptalizes nor adds yeasts. Fermentation is stopped by refrigeration at the point where the perfect sugar/acid balance has been achieved and the wine is filtered and bottled with a small dose of sulphur (25ppm).
Le Clos du Bourg
Also on the Première Côte, just above the town of Vouvray, Le Clos du Bourg is a monopole and is generally regarded as the greatest of the three Huet single vineyards, and one of the greatest vineyards of the appellation. It has been farmed by Domaine Huet since 1953 and was purchased in 1963. Clos du Bourg makes some of the most powerful, thrilling and long-lived white wines in Europe. With only one meter of topsoil over solid limestone, the vines almost immediately tap into the mineral resources underfoot. The warmth of the site, combined with the mineral complexion of the soils results in rich, super long-lived wines that seem to effortlessly synthesize intense minerality with generous texture and concentration. The walls that enclose this 6-hectare site also help facilitate a more humid microclimate favourable to botrytis. For this reason, and notwithstanding the magnificent dry wines from the Clos, this vineyard is the most regular creator of sweeter styles from grapes either affected by botrytis or passerillage.