2012 Domaine Joseph Voillot Pommard 1er Cru Les Pezerolles

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Domaine Joseph Voillot
Pommard "Les Pézerolles"  
1er Cru Red 750 ml
Score: 92
Tasted: Apr 15, 2014
Drink: 2022+
Issue: 54
Sweet spot Outstanding


Note: from a .4 ha parcel planted in 1963
Producer note: Jean-Pierre Charlot described 2012 as a "real test for the committed vigneron because if you weren't, the growing season would have defeated you and your vines. After the fact it always sounds like an over-dramatization to say that it was a war but that's really what it was because the growing season was so severe that it pardoned absolutely no laxity of any kind, particularly here in the center of the Côte de Beaune around Beaune, Pommard, Volnay, Monthelie and Meursault. There were two main waves of hail and about the only good thing that you can find to say after a hail storm is that at least it was early because storms late in a growing season are typically just catastrophes. In Volnay and Pommard we were hit on the 30th of June and that is early enough where there is a chance for the vines to recover. At the time though it was quite depressing because we already knew that the flowering had passed poorly and thus it was evident from the beginning of June that 2012 was going to be a short crop. Subtract from this more yield that varied parcel by parcel and it was as I say, less than uplifting. The challenges were far from over though because there were successive attacks of mildew and oidium and then finally when the weather turned at the very end of July, it gave us a heat wave that basically burned to a crisp any exposed fruit. And because promoting aeration was so important in the fight against mildew many people had done aggressive leaf thinning which means that when the rays of the sun really bore down there was a tremendous amount of exposed fruit which meant that losses from this alone could approach 20%. Somehow we managed to stumble to the harvest and we elected to begin picking on the 22nd of September and while there was some sorting required for damaged berries that had not dried up and fallen off the bunches, it was frankly less than I expected. I suppose one could say that if there was a silver lining in any of this it's that there was no rot and if the yields had not been so low there is absolutely no way we would have obtained the phenolic maturity that we did. Still, when you explain to clients that your production was down 60% in 2012 and another 45% in 2013 they're sympathetic until you say that their allocations have been cut accordingly. Then they're as unhappy as you are! The good news though is that 2012 is an excellent vintage that I like a lot. I just wish that there was a bit more of it." Charlot rarely seems to miss these days and as the scores and comments clearly confirm 2012 is a generally excellent vintage for him and his wines. Charlot also noted that the 2012s were bottled in December 2013. (A Roy Cloud Selection for Vintage '59 Imports, www.vintage59.com, Washington, D.C.; Adnams, www.adnams.co.uk, Ball Brothers, www.merchant.ballsbrothers.co.uk, Berry Brothers & Rudd, www.bbr.com, Decorum Vintners, www.decvin.com, Goedhuis & Co., www.goedhuis.com, Davy & Co., www.davywine.co.uk, Averys Fine Wine Merchants, www.averys.com, Bowes Wine, www.boweswine.co.uk, House of Townend, www.houseoftownend.com, DB McCraith, www.dbmwines.co.uk, Dudley-Jones Fine Wines, www.dudleyjonesfinewine.co.uk and Richard Harvey Wines, all UK).
Tasting note: Moderate wood sits atop spicy and elegant dark currant, earth and wet stone aromas. There is good concentration to the vibrant and mineral-driven medium weight flavors that possess excellent depth on the beautifully balanced, intense and lingering finish. This is very Pézerolles in character as it's a refined Pommard built on its minerality.