2012 Domaine Dugat Py Gevrey Chambertin Mazoyeres Chambertin

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Domaine Dugat-Py
Grand Cru Red barrel
Score: 93-95
Tasted: Jan 15, 2014
Drink: 2030+
Issue: 53
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Note: from a .25 ha parcel and vinified with <90% stems; produced only since 2004
Producer note: Bernard Dugat, who now manages 10.8 ha with the addition of several recent purchases and some vineyards from within the Dugat-Py family, said that 2012 "gave us the smallest yields since 2003 at only 18 to 19 hl/ha. The super challenging growing season required a great deal of vigilance and the flowering did not go well so between the two it definitely adversely affected the yields. We began picking on the 21st of September and the good news is that we obtained optimally ripe fruit that required very little sorting. In fact I would say that our sorting losses were under 5%. The ripeness levels were such that we were able to use a slightly higher proportion of whole clusters than usual with a range of between 40 and 100%. Overall, I like what the 2012 vintage produced and I think that the wines will be popular with consumers because of their approachability. That said I also think that the vintage will age better than some seem to think as the wines are concentrated, ripe and well-balanced." As the scores and commentaries confirm, 2012 is a very fine vintage chez Dugat-Py and are the kind of wines that should very much repay extended cellaring. Dugat noted that the malos were long and slow, indeed to the point that the Petite Chapelle still had not finished at the time of my late November visit and it is thus not reviewed below. I have said this before but it bears repeating: It pays to remember that the Dugat-Py wines are built for the very long haul. As such, in my view it is largely pointless to open them young but if you can't resist then be sure to allow them plenty of time in a decanter first. Dugat said that his 2011s, four of which were revisited below, were bottled in March 2013. (The Sorting Table, www.thesortingtable.com, Napa, CA; Lea & Sandeman, www.leaandsandeman.co.uk, UK, Tanners Wine, www.tanners-wines.co.uk, UK, Uncorked Ltd, www.uncorked.co.uk, UK and Thorman Hunt & Co., e-mail: Camille@thormanhunt.co.uk, UK).
Tasting note: This is a bit riper than the Charmes with its black fruit liqueur-like aromas that also display plenty of floral, earth and underbrush characters. There is superb size, weight and overt power to the broad-shouldered flavors that brim with structure-buffering extract, all wrapped in an intensely mineral-driven, sauvage and hugely long finish. This is a big wine and a classic Mazoyères though note that an abundance of patience will be required.