, disgorged in October 2019. Laherte’s entry Champagne continues its skywards trajectory (like all of this producer’s wines). It was made from both biodynamic and organically reared fruit. There are now two reserve vintages blended in, which make up 40% of the blend (a key to the leap in quality), with 60% comprising barrel-aged material. The blend remains 60% Pinot Meunier, 30% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir from a total of seven different parcels across the Côteaux Sud d’Épernay and Vallée de la Marne, namely Chavot, Mancy, Morangis, Le Breuil, Boursault, Moussy and Vaudancourt. The average age of the vines is 30 years.
Aurélien naturally ferments the wines in a mixture of vessels—including two 50-hL Rousseau tronconique casks, old barrels, foudre and concrete. Regardless of vessel, the wines are always on lees and the malolactic fermentation is partially completed (around 60-70% on average). Dosage here is only 4 g/L. This is simply a top value grower wine: bright, pure and juicy with loads of delicious red currant, apple skin Meunier fruit, and a punchy, mineral close. The quality being delivered for this price is outstanding.
* Notes on previous base.
“Based on the 2016 vintage—complemented by reserve wines from 2015 and 2014—and disgorged in April 2019 with five grams per liter dosage, the NV Brut Blanc de Blancs Ultradition unwinds in the glass with notes of warm bread, green apple, citrus oil and peach. Medium to full-bodied, bright and incisive, with a fleshy core of lively fruit, a pinpoint mousse and racy spine of acidity, it’s already drinking well.” 91 Points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
“The NV Extra Brut Ultradition is powerful, ample and creamy, with tons of richness and plenty of immediacy, all the ingredients for a terrific entry-level wine. The vinous richness of Meunier comes through loud and clear. Orchard fruit, dried flowers, herbs, mint and anise all develop in the glass, but it is the wine’s resonance that leaves the deepest impression. The Ultradition is just impeccable, especially within its peer group.” 91 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous