Dancer’s parcel in the Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot—on very rocky limestone—was established in 2012 and planted at 20,000 vines per hectare. The lieu-dit is named La Grande Bourne and sits right on the Santenay border, below the Clos Pitois. The nature of the site and the planting density give Dancer very small, concentrated bunches. This is just the second release, and while there is more clay in the profile than Tête du Clos, there’s a surfeit of freshness and precision to the wine’s dense and opulently layered fruit.
“The 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot hails from a parcel planted at the beginning of the last decade at a density of 20,000 vines per hectare. Revealing aromas of yellow orchard fruit, peach, beeswax and dried white flowers, it’s medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, with fine concentration and length. Right now, it isn’t quite as integrated as the Grands Charrons, but it will be interesting to revisit from bottle.” 90-92 points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
Outside of France, Vincent Dancer is known almost exclusively for his whites. As the reds rarely leave French shores, and are made in tiny quantities, this is perfectly understandable. In fact the Domaine only exports 30-odd per cent of its total wine, and Dancer’s red terroirs total just 1.8 hectares. Add to this the lousy yields of recent years and you start to understand how rare the red wines of this producer might have been. Nonetheless, we’ve long been admirers of Dancer’s wonderful and very fairly priced reds and we have repeatedly requested an allocation. To this Dancer has always responded that when the time was right, namely when he had a vintage that allowed him to produce some more volume, he would indeed oblige us. This was something we looked forward to. What we couldn’t have predicted were two key elements of this story. Firstly, that Dancer had been working very hard behind the scenes, in both the vineyard and the cellar, to raise the quality of his red wines to match those of his revered whites. And secondly, that he would be so generous with his allocations for our far away market. So, the stars have now aligned and we can now offer a selection of Dancer’s outstanding 2017 reds to go with the whites. How good it feels to write those words! These are wonderfully bright and deliciously perfumed red Burgundies with the kind of supple depth and transparency that reflect both low yields and his meticulous work in the vines. We took every bottle we could and we encourage you to do the same. As for Dancer’s 2017 whites, these are up with the 2014s in terms of drive, energy and depth, perhaps with a little more tenderness. Another gift from the 2017 vintage is the first release of Dancer’s new close-planted vineyard in Chassagne-Montrachet’s Morgeot Premier Cru. Finally, as 2016 was such a tiny vintage for certain cuvées, we decided to hold some back—each are listed below—to offer with these 2017s. And away we go!