Producer note: Juliette Joblot directs this 14 ha domaine where the plantings are divided between 11 ha in pinot noir and 3 ha in chardonnay. She described 2018 as “another vintage that was definitely marked by a hot and dry growing season. We did suffer some hail in early April that cost us around 30% of the potential crop. Otherwise the season was pretty easy though we were worried that we might have roasted fruit but in the end, we avoided that particular problem. We picked beginning on the 28th of August and brought in notably clean and very ripe fruit with strong potential alcohols that averaged right at 13.5%. The vinifications were straightforward and the malos were over fairly quickly, which is to say the reds finished in April. I did choose to use a bit less new wood as riper vintages need less of it. Overall, the 2018s are definitely marked by the sun but I like them for their richness and generous textures.” As the scores and commentaries suggest, Joblot has once again turned in remarkable quality and several of the wines are worth your attention. (Polaner Selections, www.polanerselections.com, NY).
Tasting note: Gentle wood influence is present on the notably ripe yet fresh array of poached plum, earth and a whiff of spice elements. The sleek, delicious and nicely textured middle weight flavors possess a sappy mid-palate before delivering fine length and reasonably good depth on the dusty, firm, moderately rustic and mildly austere finish. There is noticeable warmth but it’s not really intrusive and overall, this should reward mid-term cellaring.
No-one who knows Burgundy would argue with the assertion that Domaine Joblot is the greatest estate in southern Burgundy. Only the home estate of DRC’s Aubert de Villaine’s comes anywhere close to rivalling the wines of Jean-Marc and Vincent Joblot. It is not going too far to say that the wines made in this 14ha estate are better than many grand cru wines from the Cote d’Or.
best part of the Givry commune is an elongated amphitheatre-like band about three miles in length and superbly sheltered from westerly winds. It is here, with rocky, limestone rich soils, that the best Premier Cru vineyards such as Clos de Cellier Aux Moines and Servoisine can be found.
The estate is in one of the back streets in the centre of the small village of Givry although, when Jean-Marc showed me around, I was surprised to find that it opened up on to the main drag. For Givry this is quite a big operation, producing around 6,000 cases each year.
Both red and white wines are made here: there are 4ha of Givry Pied de Chaume (both red and white) with the remaining vines in Premier Cru sites including Cellier aux Moines, Bois Chevaux, Grand Marole (all red), Servoisine (red and white) and Vaux (white only). Vincent oversees the vines whilst Jean-Marc (pictured) says he lets the wines look after themselves. Reds are destalked and elevage is mostly carried out at the family home in Givry in new wood barrels from Francois Freres (Jean-Marc has a longstanding relationship with this famous firm of coopers). Ageing is for around 16 months but the wines do not take on too much character from the wood; rather they gain wonderful textures from their elevage.
All the wines have excellent levels of concentration with impressive depth and acidity which is considered at least as important here as sugar levels. The brothers’ demanding approach to both viticulture and vinification clearly pay off. This is a fabulous set of wines from an estate we have been following for years and we are immensely proud to be honoured with an allocation.