Maison Patrick Piuze
Chablis – Terroir de La Chapelle ♥
Villages White 750 ml
Tasted: Oct 15, 2018
Outstanding Top value
Producer note: The irrepressible Patrick Piuze, who has worked with Jean-Marie Guffens at Verget and Jean-Marc Brocard (see both herein), struck out on his own in 2008 to found an eponymous négociant. Piuze forcefully forswears corrections of any kind, which includes chaptalization (unless absolutely necessary), enzymes, acidification as well as new wood (he uses 6 to 8 year old wood at present with some stainless, depending on the wine in question). With respect to the 2017 vintage, Piuze commented that “as I did in 2016, I chose to pick very early because acid levels were falling and I wanted to maintain the freshness and purity of expression at all costs. As such I began picking a few days earlier than most of my colleagues, which is to say on the 2nd of September. The harvest conditions were ideal and the fruit was super-clean so it made for rapid picking. Unfortunately quantities were again on the sparse side and I would put the deficit at -35%. One very interesting aspect is that the technical analyses of the 2017s closely aligns with those of 2014 as potential alcohols were in the 11.8 to 12.2% range and nothing was chaptalized. In terms of style, I would describe the 2017s as combining the freshness and terroir transparency of 2014 with the body and concentration of 2012.” I would add that Piuze did exceptionally well at the lower end of the appellation range and these are wines to buy in quantity as they’re inexpensive while offering unusually good quality. (DNS Wines, www.dnswines.com, CA, Aliane Wines, www.AlianeWines.com, CA and David Bowler Wine, www.bowlerwine.com, NY, all USA; Bibendum Wine Ltd., www.bibendum-wine.co.uk, Latimer Vintners, www.latimervintners.com, Hallgarten Druitt and Carte Blanche, all UK; L’Imperatrice Fine Wines, www.imperatrice.com.hk, Hong Kong/China/Macau).
Tasting note: A slightly riper nose is comprised by aromas of various white orchard fruit that are laced with hints of rose petal, quinine and a hint of sea shore character. The exceptionally rich, even opulent flavors are both seductive and generously proportioned yet tighten up nicely on the clean, dry and markedly saline-suffused finish. Good stuff that should drink well young as well as with a few years of cellar time.