Domaine William Fèvre
Chablis – Les Preuses
Grand Cru White barrel
Tasted: Oct 08, 2016
Note: from two parcels of vines that total 2.55 ha, or 22% of the entire appellation
Producer note: Régisseur Didier Séguier describes 2015 as a “relatively precocious growing season that saw bud break in the week of April 10th followed by an early June flowering where we experienced some shatter. June and July were extremely dry and warm yet August, while not as dry, was even hotter. Everything was coming together nicely until the night of August 31st and the morning of September 1st where certain sectors were absolutely ravaged by hail along with heavy rains. The path of the storm basically started in La Forêts, continued through Montmains and then swung into Les Clos, Blanchots and Montée de Tonnerre. Thankfully the fruit was already ripe so we could begin picking immediately and I had harvest teams in the vineyards on the morning of the 3rd. Because the fruit was so clean we could pick quickly though you had to watch the pressing constantly so that you didn’t have too much potassium [and thus lower acidities.] Yields were of course all over the place but in general the Chablis was about 60 hl/ha, the 1ers between 30 to 40 hl/ha and a bit less for the grands crus. For the hailed sectors I would put our losses at around 25%, which isn’t great but it could have been worse. The non-hailed parcels were near perfect and also exceptionally clean with alcohols that were in the 12 to 13.5% range and total acidities of between 4.5 and 5 grams. As to the wines, my sense is that even though they’re reasonably well-balanced that they’re also built to drink young. One of the other interesting aspects of the vintage is that the fermentations finished with less than 1 gram of sugar which means that they’re analytically very dry and this helps to maintain the balance even with generally lower acidities than usual.” I have mentioned this before but it bears repeating so readers will not be surprised: for several years now Fèvre has elected to bottle its entire range, including the grands crus, under the Diam cork. Séguier indicated that the Fèvre 2014s, revisited below, were bottled between November 2015 and February 2016. (Henriot, Inc., www.henriotinc.com, NY, NY; John E. Fells and Sons, www.fells.co.uk and Berry Brothers & Rudd, www.bbr.com, both UK).
Tasting note: Once again there is a subtle but not invisible application of wood setting off the more elegant aromas of green fruit, citrus, floral, spice and quinine. The super-intense, delineated and vibrant middle weight plus flavors possess both good richness but also the hallmark refinement of a fine Preuses, all wrapped in a more complex and sneaky long finish. Lovely.