Pfoeller is one of the gems of the Meyer portfolio and the wine that Felix Meyer gets most animated about during a tasting of his wines. The terroir is exceptional – the wine is produced from a very steep vineyard of 30 year old vines on the eastern edge of the hillside dominated by the grand cru Sommerberg. The granite turns to limestone here, and the wine produced is intense, chiselled and dramatic. This is easily of Grand Cru quality – high-pitched, mineral-driven scents of lemongrass, lime and peach, plus a bright floral note. Silky and appealingly vibrant, offering zingy citrus and orchard fruit flavors nicely lifted by bright acidity and focused by notes of white pepper and anise. Finishes juicy and energetic, with impressive length and a touch of bitter herbs.
All of Meyer’s bottlings are characterized by stunning aromatics and a signature backbone of minerality and nerve. Racy and elegant, his wines are difficult to resist young but have all the right qualities for the cellar. For aromatic and textural seductiveness, no one in Alsace can top Meyer-Fonné. Kermit Lynch
Félix Meyer today produces some of the best wines in Alsace. From his base in Katzenthal, he produces concentrated, pure and detailed wines totally reflective of their varied terroirs.
For several years, Félix Meyer’s Domaine Meyer-Fonné in Katzenthal has been one of the top performers in Alsace. You can easily estimate the level of quality by tasting the 2016 Alsace varietal wines, which could hardly be any better.
These are more than just fruity wines, rather intermixing their ripe fruit flavor with a mineral structure and a serious expression, which you rarely find in a generic Vin d’Alsace. “Our vineyards are now mostly located on the hillsides, so the historic part of the Alsatian vineyards”, says Félix. Only about 25% of the current holdings of 14 hectares of vines are located in the valley floor and are exclusively planted with either Pinot Blanc or Auxerrois.
All the noble grape varieties, however, are cultivated in historic vineyards in the hillsides, which give predominantly dry and nervy, terroir-driven wines full of expression and mineral tension. There are no less than five Grand Cru vineyards—Kaefferkopf, Wineck-Schlossberg, Sporen, Furstentum and Schoenenbourg—that are virtually organically farmed and cultivated at Meyer-Fonné, and they all give deep, racy and firmly structured wines that intermix ripe fruit flavors and seductive textures with an elegant, lovely, vital and mineral backbone.
Add the excellent Premier Crus of Pfoeller, Dorfburg and Altenbourg, and you are standing in front of an armada of complex, terroir-driven wines; the Schoenenbourg and Kaefferkopf Riesling—as well as the Gewurztraminers from the Sporen, Kaefferkopf and the Furstentum Grand Crus—are outstanding.
Meyer’s Riesling Pfoeller, from Muschelkalk soils next to the granitic Sommerberg Grand Cru, is one of the finest Premier Crus you can find in all of Alsace.
The winemaking is very traditional here, since most of the investments have been made in the low-yielding vineyards, with top old-vines parcels in the best sites, high density plantings and the vitalization of the soils. No synthetic fertilizers, herbicides or pesticides are used.
The fermentation of the naturally cleared musts takes place with native yeasts in either stainless steel or traditional oak, and after racking, the wines are kept on the lees until May (Alsace AOC) and respectively September (single vineyards) before bottling.
Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate Issue 229, 1st March 2017