Producer note: François Mikulski described the 2017 growing season as one where “we once again narrowly avoided the frost that killed us in 2016. We were prepared this time around though and burned wet straw to create a smoke screen to block the sun’s rays. I can’t say that it’s especially ecological but it mostly worked pretty well so I’ll take it as it would have been very difficult to accept another year where we made 40% of a normal crop. I say worked pretty well as we did lose more than half the crop in our parcels of Aligoté and Bourgogne rouge and blanc but better there I suppose than in Perrières or Genevrières. I chose to begin the harvest on the 31st of August and happily the fruit was ripe and clean and required very little sorting. The vinifications were easy but I didn’t lean on them much as 2017 is a more delicate vintage that should present itself well on the younger side.” Mikulski noted that his 2017 whites, with the exception of the two examples of Bourgogne, were bottled in January and February 2019. I would add that 2017 is an excellent vintage for the domaine and the two cuvées of Charmes are stunningly good. (Becky Wasserman & Co., www.beckywasserman.com, Beaune, France; M.S. Walker, www.mswalker.com, MA/RI/NH, Fine Vines, www.finevines.com, IL, Terroir Imports, www.terroirimports.net, CO, Little Guy Wine, www.littleguywine.com, MI, Classified Wine & Spirits, LLC, www.classifiedwine.net, TX, Elite Wines Imports, VA & DC, 703.339.8150, and Skurnik Wines, www.skurnik.com, NY, all USA; Enotria Wine Cellars Ltd., www.enotria.co.uk, Bordeaux Index, www.bordeauxindex.com, both UK; L’Imperatrice Fine Wines, www.imperatrice.com.hk, Hong Kong/China).
Tasting note: This is aromatically similar to the Limozin save for the smoky character is more prominent. There is more size, weight and power to the medium weight plus flavors that benefit from the abundant sap that serves to buffer the firm acid spine shaping the bitter lemon-infected sour-sweet finish that offers excellent depth and persistence.