Domaine Virgile Lignier-Michelot
Morey St. Denis “Aux Chezeaux” ♥
1er Cru Red barrel
Tasted: Jan 15, 2017
Note: 90% whole cluster
Producer note: Like his cousin Laurent Lignier, Virgile Lignier’s take on the 2015 vintage was that “I would sign up for this quality every year if that was possible. It was a relatively easy growing season with no particular disease pressure save for a bit of oidium and thus it was much less stressful than 2012, 2013 or 2014. The flowering passed quickly but even so there was quite a bit of shatter and accompanying shot berries. I chose to begin picking on the 9th of September and we had a rain storm on the 12th that I think did some good in terms of rebalancing the fruit though it did make for messy harvest conditions due to the mud. Visually this is perhaps the best looking fruit that we’ve had since 2005. Moreover, there was no rot and almost perfect uniformity of ripeness levels. As such there was virtually nothing to sort which obviously allowed us to pick quickly. Yields were down about 15% relative to what we realized in 2014 but they were still comfortable. Potential alcohols ranged between 12.2 and 13.4% with very ripe tannins and stems. I chose to use up to 80% whole clusters but at the same time I dialed back the extractions because of the thick skins. Overall I am excited about my 2015s and I believe that they are complete wines with the ability to provide enjoyment young but also age very well.” I agree with Lignier that his 2015s are indeed exciting and complete wines that should age effortlessly. As good as they are though don’t ignore his 2014s, some of which were visited in bottle below, as they too are really lovely wines; Lignier noted that they were bottled between December 2015 and February 2016. Note: Lignier has a small négociant activity and the wines are sold under Maison Virgile Lignier. (Becky Wasserman & Co., www.leserbet.com, Beaune, France; Frederick Wildman, www.frederickwildman.com, (NJ/NY/CT), NY, NY, Fine Vines, www.finevines.com, Chicago, IL, Veritas Imports, www.veritaswine.com, CA/NV/AZ/NM, Terroir Imports, www.terroirimports.net, Denver, CO, Wines Unlimited, www.winesunlimited.com, New Orleans, LA, C’est Vin, LLC, 703.243.3559, (DC/VA) Arlington, VA, Vineyard Road, www.vineyardroad.net, Framingham, MA, Small Potatoes Wine, www.smallpotatoeswine.com, Boise ID, Atlanta Wholesale Wines, www.ndcweb.com, Atlanta, GA, Little Guy Wine, www.littleguywine.com, Dearborn, MI, Classified Wine & Spirits, LLC, www.classifiedwine.net, Austin, TX; Berry Brothers & Rudd, www.bbr.com, UK).
Tasting note: Subtle but not invisible wood can be found on the ripe yet fresh nose that displays notes of both red and dark cherry, floral and distinct earth scents. There is a sleek muscularity to the dense and mineral-inflected middle weight flavors that possess slightly better depth and length on the balanced and moderately firmer finish. In contrast to the Charmes, at least some patience will be required here.
e in a balanced and beautifully persistent finish. As is usually the case, this beauty is a combination of refinement and power.