Chablis “Montée de Tonnerre”
1er Cru White barrel
Tasted: Oct 10, 2019
Note: from a huge 2.74 ha parcel in Montée de Tonnerre proper and Pied d’Aloup
Producer note: François Servin, along with his export manager Mark Cameron (see Cameron’s wines herein), direct the operations of this 32 ha domaine. Cameron’s take on 2018 was simple as he called it “an incredibly surprising vintage. Perhaps the most surprising thing for us was the sheer volume of juice. When we were doing our ripeness samples in preparation for the harvest we thought that we might have volumes that resembled what we realized in 2010. I say this because in 2010, even though there were plenty of bunches on the vines, there was no juice in the berries. As it turned out, it was completely the opposite because there were again plenty of bunches but also much more juice in the berries! Moreover the fruit was so clean that we lost virtually nothing to sorting which obviously helps as well. Another surprise given how hot and dry the growing season was is that the potential alcohols were reasonable at around 13% and only one cuvée hit 14%. Acidities were a bit lower than average but the balance of the wines was saved by the fact that despite the lower acidities the pHs were normal. A third surprising variable is that it was the older vines that produced the most fruit rather than the younger ones due to the better developed root systems the older vines possess. And the last surprise is how fresh the wines are because it would have been reasonable to think that they might be a bit flat or top heavy but that’s definitely not the case. Overall, I like this vintage and while it’s not classic, it’s more than respectable.” Several 2017s were revisited in bottle below. (Weygandt-Metzler, www.weygandtmetzler.com, PA, USA; Laithwaites Wine Merchants, www.laithwaites.co.uk and Majestic Wine Warehouses, www.majestic.co.uk, both UK).
Tasting note: An intensely floral-suffused nose is comprised mostly by notes of white peach, lemon rind and wisps of iodine. The super-sleek and refined middle weight flavors also possess solid volume before culminating in a dry, focused and sappy finish that does exhibit a bit of warmth but it’s not really enough to impair the overall sense of balance.