Domaine René Bouvier
Gevrey-Chambertin – Racine du Temps Très Vieilles Vignes ♥
Villages Red barrel
Tasted: Jan 15, 2017
Outstanding Top value
Note: from 80+ year old vines located in Le Créot and Pince-Vin
Producer note: Bernard Bouvier took over his father’s 10 ha domaine in 1992 and it has now been expanded to 17 ha covering 20 some different appellations. Bouvier is also the current president of the Marsannay grower syndicate and thus he has been instrumental in the commune’s movement to have premiers crus anointed at some point in the future if INAO is ultimately in accordance with their upgrade petition. As to the 2015 vintage, Bouvier was openly enthusiastic, noting that “we obtained basically perfect maturities and I have never seen cleaner fruit which helped with rapidly bringing in the fruit. I began the harvest on the 7th of September under essentially perfect conditions. Yields were disparate with some as low as 20 hl/ha whereas others were relatively generous at around 35 hl/ha. Potential alcohols were in the 12.5 to 12.8% range with low-ish acidities yet because so much of it was tartaric, the pHs are actually pretty good. Partially because of how ripe they were and partially because of how clean they were, I used up to 50% whole clusters. Moreover the skins were quite thick and there was a high incidence of shot berries so it was no surprise how dense and tannic the reds are. I really like the reds because they have enough baby fat to make them enjoyable young but they also have the concentration and structure to allow them to age gracefully for years.” While there were several standouts, including the old vines Chambolle and Gevrey cuvées, I would observe that Bouvier’s 2015s are essentially in-line with what I found generally in the Côte de Nuits. (Paul Young Wines, Los Angeles, CA, Elite Wines Imports, VA, (703) 339-8150, VA & DC; Howard Ripley, www.howardripley.com and Thorman Hunt & Co., www.thormanhunt.co.uk, both UK).
Tasting note: This is riper still yet not roasted with its dense combination of cassis, black cherry, spice and sauvage-scented nose. The medium-bodied flavors possess so much dry extract that the mouth feel is positively opulent, even lush though the underlying minerality and acidity helps to keep this very well-balanced. This is a seriously impressive Gevrey villages though I wouldn’t describe it as classic.