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Gevrey-Chambertin “En Champs” ♥
Villages Red barrel
Tasted: Jan 15, 2018
Outstanding Top value
Producer note: Vincent Geantet’s son Fabien described 2016 as a “complicated vintage due primarily to the deep late April frost that destroyed the early growth in many of our vines but in particular in Marsannay, Chambolle and Savigny. Thankfully our vines in Gevrey were largely if not completely spared. The mildew pressure was incredibly intense and it was a serious challenge to protect the vines because those affected by the frost were quite fragile. In the end we managed but frankly, it was a lot of stress. On the plus side, at least the wines are excellent as they’re refreshing with ripe and supple tannins and I really like the beautiful balance. They should drink well young but have everything they need to age well too.” I noted last year that the domaine appeared to have modified its style away from a fruit-forward style to one that is more classic and in some cases, even old school. As readers know, I admire old school wines when the extractions are managed correctly and they certainly were in 2016. Note the in bottle 2015 En Champs was reviewed below. (Kysela Père et Fils, VA, USA; Howard Ripley, www.howardripley.com, Howard Ripley, www.howardripley.com, Goedhuis & Co., www.goedhuis.com, Domaine Direct, www.domainedirect.co.uk and O.W. Loeb, www.owloeb.com, all UK).
Tasting note: There is enough reduction present to push the underlying fruit and discreet wood aromas to the background. Once again though the dense and very serious medium-bodied flavors possess an excellent verve and freshness while exhibiting very fine length on the less rustic if equally structured and youthfully austere finish. Like the old vines Gevrey, this is indisputably built-to-age and is going to require extended patience.