Chablis – Bougros
Grand Cru White barrel
Tasted: Oct 11, 2017
Producer note: Régisseur Olivier Bailly, who works under the direction of Jérome Flous, the technical director for Faiveley, described the 2016 vintage as one that had a “difficult growing season and particularly so early on due to the serious frost risk and very wet spring but there was also strong mildew pressure and even some sunburned fruit in August. I chose to begin picking early because I thought that it was essential to preserve both acidity and freshness. As such we organized our picking teams to begin on the 19th of September and managed to get everything harvested by the 24th. Fruit cleanliness was varied as some parcels needed lots of sorting and others almost none at all. Yields were equally variable though across all of our vineyards the average was right at 32 hl/ha. Potential alcohols were very good at between 12 and 13% with reasonably good acidities and we had no trouble with either fermentation. As to the style of the 2016s, they’re certainly ripe and concentrated but with good underlying tension as they’re less obviously marked by the sunshine that is so evident in the 2015s. In fact, my sense is that if you combined 2014 and 2015 you’d have a result that pretty closely resembles 2016.” Speaking of the 2015s, those revisited below were bottled between September and December 2016. I note for the benefit of readers that the Petit Chablis, Chablis and Tête d’Or wines are bottled under the Diam brand composite cork. Everything else is bottled under natural cork. In terms of the harvest, the Petit Chablis and Chablis vines are picked by machine and the others are harvested manually. Lastly, the old vines cuvée of the Mont de Milieu will no longer be bottled separately. (Langdon-Shiverick, www.shiverick.com, CA, USA; H & H Bancroft Wines, www.bancroftwines.com, Berry Brothers & Rudd, www.bbr.com, Charles Taylor Wines, E-mail: [email protected], Robert Rolls & Co., www.robertrolls.com, Goedhuis & Co., www.goedhuis.com and The Wine Society, www.thewinesociety.com, all UK).
Tasting note: Somewhat surprisingly, this possesses better Chablis typicity than the Montée de Tonnerre with its iodine, oyster shell, lemon rind and ripe pear aromas. There is excellent richness and concentration to the broad-shouldered flavors that exhibit plenty of power and muscle on the lemon and saline-inflected finale. This is a solid if not truly special effort in the context of the appellation and vintage. Note that at least some patience will be required.