Domaine Comte de Vogüé
Chambolle-Musigny “Les Amoureuses” ♥
1er Cru Red barrel
Tasted: Jan 15, 2018
Note: from a .56 ha parcel
Producer note: Resident enologist François Millet described the 2016 vintage as one that “on the 27th of April had everything necessary for disaster. It had rained that night and then a moderately strong wind cleared the skies of clouds. The cold temperatures and moisture then coated everything in frost, which when the sun rose on the 28th the rays burned all of the incipient vegetation. It was perhaps the worst frost ever recorded in Chambolle yet Morey, which is right next door, was barely touched. Afterwards it required about 3 weeks to see the second generation of growth to appear and thankfully from the beginning of July forward conditions were near perfect which allowed the vines to regroup and make up the lost time in time for the harvest. We began picking on the 24th of September and brought in perfectly clean fruit that was quite ripe, both in terms of sugars but also phenolic maturities. Yields though were another story and it wasn’t pretty. We lost 70% overall though the losses were disparate, running from close to 90% in the Chambolle villages parcels, 60 to 70% in Bonnes Mares and Musigny and about 30% in Amoureuses. As a consequence it was necessary to vinify very carefully as it would have been very easy to make tannic monsters due to the thick skins and tiny quantities, in fact to this end I did no punching down for any wine except the Bonnes Mares. As to the wines, incredible freshness is really the hallmark of the 2016 vintage. The fruit profile is mostly red in character and for me the aromatics make me think of May flowers. I really quite like them as they have energy and personality.” With the exception of the Bonnes Mares, I found the de Vogüé 2016 to largely mirror the general quality of what I found elsewhere in Chambolle. By contrast I was most impressed with the de Vogüé 2015s and in particular the Musigny; it should eventually prove to be one of the great wines of the vintage. The 2015s, revisited below, were bottled between January and March 2017. While there isn’t a review for it below, readers should be aware that as of 2015 the Musigny Blanc is once again being declared as such after having been declared as a Bourgogne Blanc since the 1994 vintage. (Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants, www.chamberswines.com, CA, Country Vintner, www.countryvintner.com, VA, Veritas Imports, www.veritaswine.com, CO/NM, Ideal Wines, www.idealwine.us, MA, Atlanta Wholesale Wines, email [email protected], GA and C’est Vin, LLC, 703.243.3559, VA, all USA; Corney & Barrow, www.corneyandbarrow.com and Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., www.dreyfusashby.com, both UK).
Tasting note: A strikingly spicy, cool and admirably pure nose speaks of red currant, plum, cherry, violet and exotic tea scents. There is terrific intensity to the overtly mineral-driven medium weight flavors that possess a lacy, even silky texture before culminating in a chiseled, powerful and beautifully precise finish. Lovely and very clearly built-to-age.