Clos de Vougeot
Grand Cru Red barrel
Tasted: Jan 10, 2019
Note: from two separate parcels, one to the left of the Château and another situated to the right by the Méo-Camuzet vines
Producer note: Alain Hudelot’s grandson Charles Van Canneyt described 2017 as “one with a straightforward growing season that really didn’t give us much grief. I chose to begin picking on the 7th of September and the fruit was clean and ripe. Happily yields were much better than what we realized in 2016. Potential alcohols came in between 12.5 to 13% and thus there was very little chaptalization. I used no whole clusters for the vinifications though I did a slightly longer cuvaison of between 2 and 4 days to obtain a bit more density as the extractions occurred more slowly than usual. Somewhat curiously given the relatively low malic acid levels, the malos were late as they didn’t finish until September. As to the wines, they remind me quite a bit of the 2001s, which for me is a compliment as I like our 2001s a lot.” Van Canneyt noted that the 2016s reviewed below were bottled in January and February 2018. He further noted that they were bottled with relatively high levels of CO2 (<900 mg) so they tend to be reduced and in need of decanting. Canneyt also proudly announced that he has acquired a parcel of Meursault villages called Clos des École that was previously farmed by Coche-Dury. The review of this white will appear in Issue 75. (Atherton Wine Imports, www.awiwine.com, CA, Bayfield Imports, www.bayfieldimporting.com, NY and A Daniel Johnnes Selection, Imported by Skurnik Wines, www.skurnik.com, NY, all USA; Clarion Wines, www.clarionwines.co.uk, Howard Ripley, www.howardripley.com, Latimer Vintners, www.latimervintners.com and Laytons, www.laytons.co.uk, all UK; L’Imperatrice Fine Wines, www.imperatrice.com.hk Pearl of Burgundy, www.pearlofburgundy.com, both Hong Kong and Macau).
Tasting note: A pretty, cool and restrained nose reluctantly offers up notes of red currant, earth, humus and a hint of violet, all of which is trimmed in a discreet application of wood. The vibrant and detailed flavors are not especially concentrated (though they’re certainly not dilute) but I like the punch plus the moderately austere finish is more refined than it typically is. Solid if not sensational quality here.