Domaine Denis Mortet
Gevrey-Chambertin “Lavaut St. Jacques” ♥
1er Cru Red 750 ml
Tasted: Jan 10, 2019
Note: from 5 different parcels situated all over the appellation that total 1.17 ha
Producer note: As he suggested that he might, Arnaud Mortet has chosen to separate the wines made from last year’s acquisition of 4 ha of vines. Those wines, and reviews, can be found immediately above. As to the 2017 growing season, he noted that “while it was much easier climatically speaking than that of 2016, it was still a lot of work because while we did not have the intense mildew pressure, if you were going to make good wine you absolutely had to control yields. Vines that have had their leaves damaged by frost tend to be very productive the following year and thus we dropped an awful lot of fruit in attempting to control our yields. Even so we still had yields for the villages wines that were in the 35 to 37 hl/ha range, which is perfectly reasonable. And our work produced tangible results because when we began picking on the 6th of September, we had very good ripeness levels, in fact we chaptalized almost nothing. I used varying amounts of whole clusters for the vinifications, which is to say from zero to as high as 40%. As to the wines, I’m actually pretty happy with the results. They have a real sense of energy about them and excellent transparency. They’re already delicious and I think that they will please both clients that enjoy drinking their wines young as well as those who enjoy the aromas and flavors of well-aged Burgundies.” Note I revisited three 16s below in bottle. (Martine’s Wines, www.martineswines.com, CA, USA; multiple UK sources, including Bibendum Wine Ltd., www.bibendum-wine.co.uk, Berry Brothers & Rudd, www.bbr.com, Fields, Morris & Verdin, www.fmvwines.com, Goedhuis & Co., www.goedhuis.com, Justerini & Brooks, www.justerinis.com, Harrods Limited, www.harrods.com, Laytons, www.laytons.co.uk, The Wine Society, www.thewinesociety.com, Tanners Wine, www.tanners-wines.co.uk, all UK, L’Imperatrice Fine Wines, www.imperatrice.com.hk, Hong Kong/Macau).
Tasting note: An overtly floral and highly restrained nose offers up aromas of airy and cool essence of red currant, freshly turned earth, humus and forest floor scents. The intense, powerful and muscular broad-shouldered flavors possess fine mid-palate concentration thanks to the abundant level of dry extract that buffers the firm tannic spine on the austere and serious finish. In sum this chiseled and mineral-driven effort is a classically styled LSJ.