Domaine Comte de Vogüé
Musigny Vieilles Vignes
Grand Cru Red barrel
Tasted: Jan 15, 2016
Note: from an incredible 6.46 ha parcel, which doesn’t include the .67 ha parcel planted to chardonnay
Producer note: Resident enologist François Millet described the 2014 vintage as one that had a “very precocious and clement spring that jump started the vegetative cycle while also allowing for an even and rapid flowering. Unfortunately those conditions didn’t hold as we had what we French call a Scottish summer! It was constantly rainy, quite cool and generally just miserable where grape maturities barely budged for almost two months. Thankfully things abruptly changed for the better at the very end of August and maturities finally increased due to all of the water that the vines had stockpiled during the summer. It’s a good thing too because I have to say that I was not particularly optimistic at the middle of August. We finally began picking on the 13th of September and while there was some sorting required it was mostly for under ripe berries rather than Suzukii problems or rot. Yields weren’t particularly high but they were the best that we have seen since 2009. Potential alcohols were good if not high at between 12 and 12.5% which is just fine as acidities and phenolic maturities were also good. As to the wines, I very much like their innate sense of balance as they have everything that they need. They have the benefit of a lovely freshness that is allied with just the right amount of ripeness which is what makes them so well-balanced.” The 2013s, revisited below, were bottled between January and March 2015. (Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants, www.chamberswines.com, San Francisco, CA, Country Vintner, www.countryvintner.com, Ashland, VA, Veritas Imports, www.veritaswine.com, CO/NM, Ideal Wines, www.idealwine.us, Boston MA, Atlanta Wholesale Wines, email email@example.com, GA, C’est Vin, LLC, 703/243-3559, Arlington, VA; Corney & Barrow, www.corneyandbarrow.com, and Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., www.dreyfusashby.com, both UK).
Tasting note: While highly complex this is cool to the point of only grudgingly revealing a strikingly layered combination of violets, rose petals, sandalwood, anise, clove, plum and dark currant scents. This is a big and overtly muscular wine with broad-shouldered and admirably concentrated flavors yet for all of the impressive size, weight and volume, the massively long finish is serene, even Zen-like. 2014 is a relatively seductive and forward vintage for this storied wine that I appreciate that calling a wine “forward” when it will likely need 20 years to fully mature is a relative concept!