LE CLOS DES CARTERIES ROUGE / Touraine – AOC Cheverny (Gamay / Pinot Noir) –
This is delightfully fresh and fruity Cheverny, made of 80% Gamay and 20% Pinot Noir. The fresh, drinkability comes from the easy Gamay, grown on light sandy soils, well drained, from a balmy and comfortable growing season. There is a slight, refreshing greenness there to give some interesting layers and backbone to the cherry and raspberry fruit, coming from a 3-week whole bunch maceration. This wine loves a plate of charcuterie or even a plate of goat’s milk cheeses.
The domaine is situated in the sleepy agricultural village of Madon, balancing on the edge of the southern escarpment 100m above the Loire river, on the plateau of Cheverny. This is France’s garden – asparagus, herbs, vegetables and grain are all on the farming menu, along with viticulture. Christian Venier makes a clear statement that hard and honest vineyard and cellar work are essential to creating healthy natural wine, and that rigour is more important than trying to meet norms in order to have a certain label organic or other.
He operates, therefore, under the “conventional” farming category. But his practices are much closer to artisanal/peasant farming rather than conventional or industrial practices. The domaine is truly family run: 3 generations work the land and run the business today. The domaine works with a number of authentic and almost forgotten grape varieties unique to the Loire Valley, including Pineau d’Aunis, Orbois and Romorantin.