Domaine Bernard Moreau
Chassagne-Montrachet Vieilles Vignes
Villages Red 750 ml
Tasted: Apr 10, 2019
Note: from 35+ year old vines
Producer note: Alexandre Moreau told me that the 2017 “growing season had us on edge at the beginning but thankfully we dodged the frost bullet that could have been truly catastrophic. Thereafter though conditions were clement and dry and as such there was no disease pressure to speak of. Then the period between the 20 and 25th of August was blazing hot and this changed the character of the vintage because we saw the sugars climb faster than the phenolic maturities. This caused us some grief because it made our picking decisions even more complicated than normal. In the end we chose to begin the harvest on the 30th of August and the fruit was clean and ripe in both senses of sugars and structural elements. Yields were moderately generous in red but not so much in white as they ranged between 37 to 41 hl/ha. We chose to do a soft vinification as we didn’t want to obtain raw or harsh tannins. In the end, we’re very happy with the wines as they have an attractive freshness and excellent transparency in a style that should permit them to drink well early, and in particular the reds, but also age well with no trouble.” I found the 2017 reds chez Moreau to be very much in the style and quality described by Alexandre Moreau. While the domaine is obviously better known for its whites, it often makes very good reds and I like what I found here in 2017. Moreau noted that the in-bottle wines were put there in November 2018. (The Sorting Table, www.thesortingtable.com, CA, USA; O.W. Loeb, www.owloeb.com, Flint Wines, www.flintwines.com, Uncorked Ltd, www.uncorked.co.uk, all UK; Pearl of Burgundy, www.pearlofburgundy.com, Hong Kong and Macau).
Tasting note: An even earthier nose combines notes of pepper and leather with those of dark currant and violet. There is good succulence here as well though with more evident mid-palate density and power, all wrapped in an equally rustic finish that is just a bit short today. With that said, I suspect that the absence of first-rate length is more a question of the recent bottling and thus this will likely better harmonize with a few years of age.