Domaine Jacques Carillon
Puligny-Montrachet “Champs Canet” ♥
1er Cru White barrel
Tasted: Jun 10, 2019
Note: 40+ year old vines
Producer note: Jacques Carillon (brother of François – see above) describes 2017 as “having a very early start to the growing season with an exceptionally early flowering that passed reasonably well but not perfectly as we did have some shatter. Other than a late April frost scare, we really had a pretty easy time of things and particularly so compared to say 2016. August was quite warm without being really hot and thus the bunches were able to preserve good acid levels. I chose to begin picking on the 1st of September and because of the shatter during the flowering, I actually brought in less volume in my 1ers than I did in 2016. But the fruit was both clean and ripe and thus it was easy to vinify. Stylistically, I would describe the 2017s as a blend of 2015 and 2016 as they have the ripeness of the ’15s combined with the transparency and energy of the ’16s.” I found the quality of the Carillon 2017s to be generally excellent and they are worth checking out. I have pointed this out before but it’s worth emphasizing again that Carillon has raised his free SO2 level to <50 milligrams in the hopes of preventing, or at least ameliorating, the problem of premature oxidation. However levels this high can usually be detected in the wines for the first two years or so after bottling. Thus, if you want to try any of the Carillon wines young, I would strongly advise decanting them. As to the Carillon 2016s, revisited below, Jacques noted that they were bottled in March 2018. (Rosenthal Wine Merchant, www.madrose.com, NY, USA; Berry Brothers & Rudd, www.bbr.com, The Rare & Fine Wine Company Limited, www.therareandfinewinecompany.com, Fields, Morris & Verdin, www.fmvwines.com and Charles Taylor Wines, E-mail: [email protected], all UK).
Tasting note: A subtle interjection of wood appears on the smoky and well-layered aromas of various white orchard fruit, lavender and citrus zest. Once again there is excellent energy and punch to the much more mineral-driven and more concentrated flavors that deliver really lovely complexity and sneaky good persistence. This is impressive and a wine that should amply reward most of a decade of cellaring.