Grand Cru Red barrel
Tasted: Jan 15, 2017
Note: from a .24 ha parcel of 35+ year old vines
Producer note: Cyprien Arlaud, who directs this domaine which owns 15 ha and farms a total of 18 ha, describes 2015 as a vintage that “finally gave us a relatively easy growing season because other than some oidium at the beginning of the cycle, there wasn’t much else to worry about. The summer heat did cause some hydric stress in well-draining parcels but that was it. As almost always it was necessary to choose your picking dates carefully and we finally elected to pull the trigger on the 7th of September as it was clear that the fruit was ripe with good sugars and acidities so there didn’t seem to be anything to gain by delaying further. The fruit was super clean so the picking went quickly. Yields were reasonable at around 35 hl/ha and potential alcohols were strong at between 13 and 13.7%. Interestingly, acidities remained healthy if not high and I was impressed by the balance of acids, sugars and dry extract. I chose to vinify with around 30% whole clusters for the grands crus but not for the other wines. I also chose to use a bit less new wood in 2015, which is to say between 20 and 30%. As to the wines, they possess excellent concentration and stylistically I would compare them to a slightly less structured version of 2005.” As the scores and commentaries suggest, despite the widespread reduction present, I found the Arlaud 2015s to generally outperform the typical quality of what I found in Morey. Note that Arlaud also makes five négociant wines (four of which are from Vosne) under his “&Arlaud” (sic) label though I did not find any of them other than perhaps the Echézeaux to outperform; as such I have not reviewed them below. (Skurnik Wines, www.skurnik.com, New York NY; North Berkeley Imports, www.northberkeleyimports.com, Berkeley, CA; O.W. Loeb, www.owloeb.com, and Flint Wines, www.flintwines.com, both UK).
Tasting note: Reduction. The dense, structured and powerful big-bodied flavors possess a robust muscularity, indeed this is a borderline massive effort that is absolutely going to require an extended snooze in a cool cellar and it would be pointless to open one of these before at least 10 years of cellaring. In sum, this is most impressive but once again, patience essential.