Since 1998 a special cuvée called Cuvée des Félix, is made from 60% Grenache, 25% Mourvedre and the rest is Syrah and other varieties. It’s from the oldest vines and is matured in small old oak barrels for about 18 months. It counts for about 10% of the production.
Bright purple. Sexy aromas of blackcurrant, blueberry, musky herbs and dried flowers. Supple, sweet and generous, with good lift and definition to its dark berry, cracked pepper and spice flavors. With aeration, this wine picks up a subtle gaminess along with a hint of candied flowers. Finishes with dusty, building tannins and excellent length.
Josh Raynolds, Vinous Media January 2014
Jean-Paul Versino at Bois de Boursan is one of the few growers who stick resolutely to traditional methods and his wines stand out for their wonderfully classical and typical Châteauneuf aromas.
This is Châteauneuf as it used to be, as it always was, and not the modern, sweet and easy style that is now often produced in collaboration with the various consultant oenologues that plague contemporary French winemaking – so instead of mocha and coffee you will find lavender, garrigue, stones, ash and fresh, sappy fruit. Bois de Boursan wines are very aromatic, with tremendous texture and energy.
Versino uses whole bunch fermentation, wild yeasts, keeps extraction to a minimum, presses using an old basket press, élevages the wine for nearly two years in large old oak barrels and bottles unfiltered and unfined.
His approach in the cellar is key but so is the diversity and quality of his terroir: 27 parcels of very old vines over 18 hectares in all sectors of the appellation. This is rare. Trees border many of the parcels which help to cool the vines a little; the different sectors lend complexity and are usually harvested at different times to take advantage of optimal ripeness.
Most vineyards are at around 100m altitude and gently slope south, south-east or south-west; the climate is Mediterranean with the mistral wind to cool, dry and concentrate; all vines are bush trained and worked organically and meticulously.
When tasting Versino’s wines, they reveal themselves slowly but they build on the palate to offer layers of elegance, complexity and structure, and finish powerfully but most importantly, fresh and vibrant. Accessible when young, the best vintages will age brilliantly for up to 25 years.