Domaine Comte de Vogüé
Musigny Vieilles Vignes
Grand Cru Red 750 ml
Tasted: Jan 15, 2014
Producer note: Resident enologist François Millet described the 2012 vintage as one that had a “very difficult spring and summer. We had one day of rain for every two days that mixed cloudy weather with sunshine. There was intense disease pressure, most particularly from mildew but there was also hail which cost us some quantity as well. But the biggest factor affecting yields was the poor weather in June that caused the flowering to proceed badly. Then, after the cool weather that characterized almost all of the April to July period, we had a heat wave at the end of July that sunburned any bunches that were directly exposed. This cost us more potential yield. In fact about the only problem that we could have had but didn’t is botrytis and the absence of rot and the good weather in August and September allowed us to have exceptionally clean and ripe fruit. We began picking on the 22nd of September and there was almost no sorting required. The potential alcohols were right around 13% and the phenolic maturity was exceptional. As to the wines, what I find interesting about them is that they are intensely mineral and often when we have vintages that accentuate minerality the wines are often somewhat austere. But in 2012 the wines are very stony but they aren’t austere. One other characteristic that seems to characterize the wines is how floral they are. I really like the 2012 vintage as I didn’t expect this level of quality. On the other hand, I wish that we had more of it.” The 2012s chez de Vogüé are really lovely wines that should thoroughly repay extended cellaring. The 2011s, revisited below, were bottled between January and March 2013 and have turned out about like I originally foresaw. (Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants, www.chamberswines.com, San Francisco, CA, Country Vintner, www.countryvintner.com, Ashland, VA, Veritas Imports, www.veritaswine.com, CO/NM, Ideal Wines, www.idealwine.us, Boston MA, Atlanta Wholesale Wines, email [email protected], GA, C’est Vin, LLC, 703/243-3559, Arlington, VA; Corney & Barrow, www.corneyandbarrow.com, and Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., www.dreyfusashby.com, both UK).
Tasting note: A remarkably attractively cool and restrained nose of various red berries, spice and a beautiful array of floral elements complements well the rich and equally cool mineral-tinged big-bodied and overtly muscular flavors. There is a really lovely sense of underlying tension on the clean and pure finish that delivers strikingly good length. This intensely mineral-driven effort is also clean and firm but with slightly better phenolic maturity to the supporting structural elements which should allow this beauty to age successfully for many years to come.