Domaine Comte de Vogüé
Musigny Vieilles Vignes
Grand Cru Red 750 ml
Tasted: Jan 10, 2019
Note: from an incredible 6.46 ha parcel, which doesn’t include the .67 ha parcel planted to chardonnay
Producer note: Resident enologist François Millet described the 2017 growing season as one “where we were seriously concerned about the possibility of another April frost damage nightmare. As it turned out the temperatures were low enough to cause injury to the new leaves but there wasn’t the necessary humidity so we dodged a bullet. The rest of the season was relatively benign with a precocious flowering and warm if not scorching summer. As is often the case after a vintage where there is frost damage, the fruit set was abundant so we spent a lot of time controlling yields. We chose to begin picking on the 2nd of September under cool harvest conditions and brought in very clean fruit that required very little sorting. Yields were in the 30 to 35 hl/ha range where the potential alcohols averaged right at 13% so I chaptalized nothing. There was quite a bit of juice yet with reasonable solid to liquid ratios so I did not do a saignée. In the same spirit, I also chose to do no punching down at all as the grapes gave up their colors and extract easily. As to the wines, they’re marked by their freshness and energy plus they have excellent transparency. I would put 2017 in the category of sunny and warm vintages such as 2009, 2000 and 1997 but importantly, 2017 has more concentration than any of those.” The 2016s, revisited below, were bottled between February and March 2018. Readers should be aware that as of 2015 the Musigny Blanc is once again being declared as such after having been declared as a Bourgogne Blanc since the 1994 vintage; there will be a review for the 2017 Musigny Blanc in Issue 75. (Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants, www.chamberswines.com, CA, Country Vintner, www.countryvintner.com, VA, Veritas Imports, www.veritaswine.com, CO/NM, Ideal Wines, www.idealwine.us, MA, Atlanta Wholesale Wines, email [email protected], GA and C’est Vin, LLC, 703.243.3559, VA, all USA; Corney & Barrow, www.corneyandbarrow.com and Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., www.dreyfusashby.com, both UK).
Tasting note: A restrained and cool and yet perfumed and ultra-spicy array offers up aromas of dark cherry, raspberry and a wide range of floral elements. The concentrated, tautly muscular and tension-filled flavors possess excellent depth of material as well as an abundance of minerality while exhibiting superb persistence on the firm, dusty, youthfully austere and built-to-age finish where a hint of bitter cherry pit appears. This sleek and classy effort will need an extended stay in a cool cellar. In a word, brilliant.